Ultimate guide: where to eat, stay and play in Munich, no matter the weather

Average temperature: 0 / 19 degrees

WHY: As the city emerges from the grip of winter, puffy ski jackets and traditional Bavarian Trachten coats are put away and people reacquaint themselves with Munich's green spaces, wild flowers and birdsong. The city's easy access to nature is one reason why it regularly tops global quality-of-life surveys.

HOW: Spring is great for taking one (or both) of the long-distance walks designed by the city's tourism team. The longer North-South Passage (21km) runs from Olympic Park through the centre and down wooded tracks alongside the Isar river. The shorter East-West Passage (12km) starts in the Bogenhausen district and ends at Nymphenburg Palace. It crosses the Englischer Garten which, at 375 hectares, is one of the largest inner-city parks in the world; bigger than New York's Central Park. If the weather is still brisk, warm up at either the BMW Welt museum (the home of the brand) or the Neue Sammlung design museum, which just turned 100 and houses everything from everyday objects to weird and wonderful prototypes. I like dining at Zum Drnbru in spring: outside in the beer garden if it's mild, or snug and cosy inside on chillier days. It's about as traditionally Bavarian as a Munich restaurant can get. For great spring views over the city and to the Alps check in to the Adina Munich, the highest hotel in town. From some rooms you can look down on an ingenious rooftop farm on the adjacent Werksviertel building, complete with beehives, chickens and sheep nibbling the grass.

Average temperature: 11 / 12 degrees

WHY: Munich's long-standing nickname as "Italy's northernmost city" makes most sense in summer. It can get surprisingly hot (30 degrees or more) and large areas of grass and pavement become congenial alfresco dining and drinking spots. People swim in lakes and rivers, and bike paths jingle with the bells of a thousand pottering cyclists.

HOW: Summer is one outdoor celebration after another. There's the Corso Leopold street festival, Munich's birthday (the city turns 868 years old in 2026), the Tollwood music festival and the colourful Christopher Street Day parade and party, which is part of Munich Pride. For a relaxing summer day, hit the open-air Viktualienmarkt food market to stock your picnic hamper with cold meat, fish, fruit, wine and anything else that takes your fancy. Then find a shady spot in the Englischer Garten to consume your Bavarian delights and spot some of the 100 or more bird species that live here. This is also the best season for beer gardens. Here are three of my favourites: At Seehaus you can sit on the shore of the Kleinhesseloher lake in the Englischer Garten and sip local Paulaner beer. Koniglicher Hirschgarten is next to a deer park and reputed to be the world's largest beer garden, with 8000 seats, yet despite the crowds its location in nature makes it very relaxing. Also try Muffatwerk, a smaller venue with a big focus on locally produced food and drinks. Keep the alfresco party going by checking into the Mandarin Oriental, Munich, arguably the city's most stylish address.

Average temperature: 0 / 19 degrees

WHY: Apart from Oktoberfest, which is fun but not to everyone's taste, autumn is when the city slows down and the trees don their fiery red and yellow coats. It's a time to indulge in rich harvest produce and then burn off the calories on forest walks.

Average temperature: -4 / 5 degrees

WHY: This is my favourite season in this fabulous city. The first snowflakes fall, the air is full of the scent of gluhwein and ginger Pfeffernusse biscuits. As November gives way to December, the city's Christkindlmarkt (Christmas markets) set up across the city centre.

HOW: Cross-country skiers, sledders and ice skaters - this is your time. Christmas fanatics, too. Possibly the most delightfully wintry thing to do is stand next to the huge Christmas Tree in the main square, Marienplatz, at 6pm on a December day with a mug of gluhwein. A group of singers and musicians appear on a balcony and perform traditional Bavarian carols; it is beyond festive. Afterwards, sample the array of sausages and sauerkrauts at the numerous stalls. If you prefer fish, head for a stall in the smaller Rindermarkt market, which smokes great haunches of salmon over burning logs. You've never tasted salmon like this. For fancier dining, book at the Mandarin Oriental hotel for its rooftop Winter Domes experience. You can reserve one of the clear-sided geodesic domes, snuggle under sheepskin rugs and eat fabulous Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei food. After a brief new year lull, Munich comes back to life with its carnival (or Fasching). Expect parades, parties, costumed balls and dances with people dressed as clowns, knights and medieval fools. After all that gadding about in the cold, burrow in to the Cortiina hotel, my long-time favourite Munich crash-pad.